Sunday, May 27, 2012

MOB Lining Attachment Tweek

So, I was looking at the photos I published in my last post, and I noticed the jacket sleeve's hem stitches showed on this picture - which really bothered me.  It looks line a line running across the sleeve bottom.

I followed the pattern instructions to attach the lining and jacket - big mistake!  Here's what the lining looks like insided the jacket sleeve.  UNACCEPTABLE!!

So, I made the following "tweeks"...

I opened the lining's center back seam...

 ... so I could access the sleeve hems from inside the jacket.

I began removing the stitching connecting the jacket and lining sleeves.

Next, I marked one of the two sleeve seams to make certain I match them correctly when I re-attach the lining and jacket. 

The pattern instructions had me hem the jacket and lining sleeves seperately and attach them.  I originally used the blind stitch on my maching to hem each.

The bobbin threading kept jamming while I stitch the blind hem - I HATE WHEN THAT HAPPENS!! - so, I removed the blind stitching from all four sleeves.

I added a strip of bias cut interfacing to each jacket sleeve's hem, leaving the seam allowance free.  The additional interfacing extends up to the depth of the sleeve's 2-inch hem, providing me a surface that I can "catch" when securing the sleeve's hem.

The upper sleeve completed...

...and now the under sleeve.

Now that the additional interfacing has been fused, I measure and press the hem's 2-inch depth.

I fold back and pin approximately half the hem depth so I can begin securing it.

Instead of catching a thread in the fashion fabric, I'm catching a thread in the woven interfacing.

The stitches alternate between the jacket sleeve and the hem allowance, creating a zig-zap appearance.


From the sleeve's right side, there are no visible stitch marks, which is the goal.

Another view of the alternating catch stitches.

Next, I pin the lining and jacket sleeves hems together, matching seams and raw edges.

Opposite side of the pinned edges.

Next, I run the hem edges through the sewing machine with a 5/8 inch allowance.

Here's a view of the machine-sewn hem allowance from the lining side...

...and from the jacket side.

Once the sleeve is pulled out from the back center opening, you can verify how much nicer the attachment looks...

...and again - no visible seam seam stitching line.

A quick pressing of the sleeve hem to set the stitches and remove any pin marks...

...and a visual confirmation that the lining looks great from under the jacket sleeve.

After closing the lining's center back seam, here's the final jacket.  I think it's going to look fantastic on Vickie!!

Be blessed!!


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